Hi![/align] [/align] I am in the process of rebuilding my steering rack. This job has been a PITA*2 for many reasons, but most importantly, because the companies that provide these kits DO NOT provide any type of Manual or Instructions. To further complicate matters, the 928 Workshop manual does not cover rebuilding the rack, stating that the whole rack should just be replaced, and implying that it's old-fashioned to rebuild a rack.[/align] [/align] That's nice, but I don't have that nifty job I had when I purchased the car, so a rebuild kit is my only option.[/align] [/align] Does an instructional guide exist for this procedure? [/align] [/align] I made do with a few homebrew 944 rack rebuild guides that I found on the web. The two racks are similar, but far from identical. I painstakingly cleaned & thouroughly detailed all of the parts, replaced all seals & rubber, making diagrams as I went along.[/align] [/align] BUT... I missed one piece in my diagrams, and I am unsure of its proper location in terms of re-assembly.[/align] [/align] It is the smaller diameter of the two 'plus signed' + shaped metal washers.The larger of which is located on the shuttle, as pictured. My question is:[/align] [/align] Where exactly does the other (smaller diameter hole plus signedmetal washer) go? It seems like the only place it would fit is on the rack rod itself, and I would guess that it should be at one of the ends of the shuttle, on the rod... But I am unsure... and after all of this work, 'UNSURE' doesn't cut it.[/align] [/align] To make things worse, this second +washer is not a part of the 944 rack (as far as I can tell from pics), so there is no help in those web guides for this puzzle piece.[/align] [/align] Can someone tell me the exact correctlocation, & orientation of this piece (the + shaped metal washer)?[/align] [/align] If anyone knows of 928 specific guides for this horrible job, please post them, as well. It would be nice to have something like that to check my work. IREALLYdon't want to install this thing, then have to re-do it multiple times to get it right, it's been such a nightmare.[/align] [/align] Ironically, 928 Motorsports sent me a CD with the kit. It covered every product they sell, EXCEPT the steering rack rebuild kit. It made it a very, very dificult job. Of course this was my first steering rack rebuild, but still, my email quey to the company was met with a response that was like, "Oh, it should be obvious..." Well, if you've never done it before, it's not obvious, even for someone who generally considers himself a skilled engineer.[/align] [/align] Anyway, any procedural help would be most welcome.[/align] [/align] Thanks, Pictures follow, showing the shuttle with the +washer on it, and the other, smaller diameter hole +washer next to it. I need to know where this smaller +washer goes.[/align]

[IMG]local://upfiles/4152/4EFAB75E696341F1AD4A64E71CD199EC.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/4152/3A86907794784364AC08D6E43CB51096.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/4152/F94E8BE92F314DECAB6444A74AFFC16C.jpg[/IMG]

 

Here is a description that I found on 928 international. Maybe it will help some.

Kent

From: Theo Jenniskens [jenniskens@wxs.nl]
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 2:11 PM
To: 928
Subject: [928] Steering Rack Repair

Hi,
my steering rack leaked, so I had to take the car into the shop for a
repair.
I watched the mechanic perform the complete action in 4 hours (not bad
eh...).

What you need is a 928 steering rack repair kit (a bunch of rings and seals,
orig. 928 part)
Normal socket wrench set, and the normal tools
A hammer and driving tools
Patience, and preferably a shop-lift or a decent garage pit.

This is a global step by step:

1. Take off the belly cover plates (both the metal and the fiber one)
2. Start wiping off all the dirt so that you prevent dirt getting into the
rack and damage it again.
3. Push down the boots on both sides to the far wheel end, and let fluid
come out.
4. Unscrew the bolts that attach the fluid lines from the pumt to the rack,
and let all the fluid drip out
5. Unscrew the tie rod nuts (and lock-nut) on both sides and srew out the
rod's
6. Unscrew all smaller nuts and loosen the bigger nuts to provide some
manouverability
7. Unscrew the bolt from the steering axle, and carefully push the splined
shaft out (hammer req?)
8. Remove the steering rack completely. Check for the condition of the
mounting rubbers.
9. Take off the metal fluid lines from the rack (really requires force on
the bolts, had to use a hammer/driver)
10. Remove the cover plate and the rack guide on the side, and take out the
spring and guide-block
11. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the top plate, the plate, and the bearings
with some rings. Mind the sequence.
12. Remove the top axle with the steering worm gear gently by rotating a
bit.
13. Remove the two aluminium stopper rings from the main shaft ends
14. Use a driver and hammer to loosen the 2 ring-screws from the yellow
'main-pipe' part to both aluminium ends
15. Carefully take apart the main housing now, thus ending up with the right
alu end, the 'pipe' housing, the left (steering) alu part.
16. Gently take out the axle from the housing. Take off the inner guide
housing and the rings and c-clips.
17. Now start replacing all rings, and seals that you have seen. Use the
sockets from your wrench set to drive out the seals gently, and make sure
not to damage the housing.
18. Put it all together again in reverse order. Carefully allign the
aluminium housing parts again.
19. Reassemble the worm gear. Take good care not to damage the worm bearings
when re-assembling. Use some grease to keep the bearings seated properly if
required. Make sure the parts move smoothly.
20. Remount the metal fluid lines, and use new O-rings as supplied with the
set.
21. Mount the rack under the car, and connect the steering axle to the
splined shaft. Bolt on tight (clamp).
22. Re-attach the fluid lines and reconnect the tie-rods again. Test for
proper steering movement.
23. Move the boots back in place and make sure they are properly seated.
Dirt must be kept out.
24. Mount the cover plates again, and top up the reservoir with ATF fluid
(Dexron II / III)
25. Start the car, and let it idle for a moment. Fill up the reservoir
again. The rack will fill itself with ATF.
26. Gently start turning the steering wheel and let the air out of the
system. The system will make a humming sound.
27. Again top-up the reservoir and do a drive around the block, testing the
steering for proper alignment
28. When the sounds start to disappear, make some complete turns to left and
right. All ok??
29. Clean all the ATF you spilled all-over, and have a beer.

It is not a wise idea to start racing after reassembling the steering rack.
Test it for some time before relying on it.
Check the fluid level in the reservoir every other day. Also watch the cover
plates for ATF oil dripping.
Wheel re-aligning may be nessecary, especially when replacing the rubbers in
the rack-mounting.

This is not my personal achievement... but I think in future I would take on
the job. It is not so hard.
A good thing to do in such a job, is to organise all parts in the right
sequence, and make some notes/drawings. Makes reassembling all these bits
and pieces easier I guess. It is annoying when you have to take it all apart
again when you find out that suddenly you car has a personal favor for hard
left turns....

Theo, '88 928s4 AT cherry red
http://home.wxs.nl/~Jennit/Porsche.htm